Thursday, April 29, 2010

Ceiba

Overview: A few years ago, in small apartment in Brighton, Mike conceived of a culinary creation called the surf and turf burger -- a burger patty and crab cake on a roll. Mike was sure this would be a phenomenon. His enthusiasm convinced his CIA-trained roommate, who at the time was a chef in Dedham, to run it as a daily special at his restaurant. Instead of becoming the new hit, the burger flopped and no one -not a single customer- ordered it. Years later, this chef took the surf and turf idea, made it his own creation and served it to us at Ceiba, the contemporary Latin restaurant he works at in Washington DC. This is that burger's story.

Medium Dead: The Ceiba surf and turf burger is a creation so over indulgent any self respecting catholic should walk themselves directly to confession after eating it. Most gourmet burgers focus on artisanal cheese or fancy bread to differentiate the burger, but Chef Matt takes this one step farther. Stuffed inside this juicy patty is two ounces of lobster that is slowly poached in butter. The lobster lends delicate and subtle flavor to the burger but adds a sinful texture and amazing richness. If you think a burger can't possibly be any richer, you are wrong, since it is covered in a creamy huacaina sauce, topped with sliced avocado and placed on a bed of queso fresco.
Every ingredient is well thought out and individually enhances the meat without stealing the show. The lobster is more like a condiment than a main ingredient, which is perfect because at the end of the day a burger should always be about the beef.

Medium Well: I did not expect to like this burger. My knowledge of the original surf and turf burger's failure, paired with my indifference for lobster led me to believe that I would be writing a "nice try, but bad burger" review. This will not be one of those reviews. Matt has created one of the most gratifying synergism's the culinary world has yet to know. It is a prime example of how unrelated ingredients from various cuisines can create a combination so emphatically spectacular that you wonder how your palate lived without it before. If publicized correctly, this burger can kick mini-burgers to the curb and become the upscale restaurant industry's new trend.

Bonus Bites: Ceiba is famous for their ceviche and no meal here is complete without ordering it. We had a sampling of the Peruvian Classico ceviche, Yucatan shrimp ceviche cocktail and the yellowfin tuna ceviche. Even better than the ceviche was the lesser known tiradito which was sliced sea bass cooked in fresh lime juice with red grapefruit, radish and jalapenos.

The Verdict: Go to Ceiba and have the surf and turf burger. You won't find it on the menu but if you ask nicely you might just be lucky enough to have one of the best burgers in DC.

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