Garden at the Cellar

Overview: Garden at the Cellar is a gastropub on Mass ave in Cambridge, just outside of Harvard Square. Garden's claim is food that pays homage to the bounty of gardens, local farms and environmentally responsible products. They have a classic cocktail menu, a somewhat decent beer selection, and a menu so unique we could come back many times and never order the same thing. One look at the Boycott Restaurant Week menu and we knew this place was special.

Medium Well: It’s official. Garden at the Cellar earns the accolade for Unexpected Favorite of the Year. I have walked past Garden many times, and have thought little of it. If anything, the mundane appearance deterred me from wanting to dine there. I guess you shouldn’t judge a restaurant by its window sign, because this is one of the best meals I have had since starting this blog. Garden at the Cellar seems be one of few restaurants that knows a burger does not have to be charred on the outside to be cooked through on the inside. Unlike the dry, flavorless burgers that are often associated with medium burgers, this burger had clear, savory juices that trickeled from the center. The aioli and arugula added subtle complexities to even out the soft, buttery flavor of the brioche. The truffle fries are the second best fries that I have ever, EVER had in my life (second only to the Spotted Pig’s shoestring fries). One bite led me questioning why anyone would fry bland potatoes in any oil other than truffle oil.

The polenta fries are worth ordering if only for the housemade bleu cheese dressing. I have a particular affinity to restaurants that make their own condiments (see Craigie on Main), and Garden at the Cellar took it a step further by using my favorite local blue cheese (Great Hill Blue) as the main ingredient. Creamy and mild, the blue cheese dressing was the perfect accompainment for the golden crisped polenta sticks.

Medium Dead: As hard as I try, I have nothing sarcastic or negative to say about Garden at the Cellar. This is the type of restaurant I love to seek out. I knew I wanted the burger but choosing an appetizer was like choosing which friend I wanted to save in a fire. I couldn't decide between the foie gras and donuts, tater tots, charcuterie, polenta fries, cod cakes, and assiette of pork. Everything sounded so good I was contemplating which appetizer to order for dessert. This is why I need my hierarchy for ordering. Cured meats always win over duck liver.

In the end we decided on the polenta fries and charcuterie plate. Neither disappointed. The charcuteries were all housemade with the exception of the mortadella, which was local. The charcuterie at Garden rivals Coda in quality and uniqueness. The pork pate was wrapped in speck, the chorizo is made on premise, but the head cheese was the best. It was dry, sliced thin and tasted similar to rosemary ham. Every accompaniment was perfectly planned out. There were pickled shallots and okra, German mustard, and sweet cornichon pickles. On the side was a massive bowl of perfectly toasted crostini.

The burger at Garden is definitely the best burger I have had in 2010. The formula is so simple yet perfectly executed -- high quality local beef on warm buttery brioche topped with Vermont cheddar and aioli. The layer of peppery arugula under the burger adds a truly unique twist. As good as the burger was, it was nearly over shadowed by the fries. Lightly golden crispy fries tossed in rosemary and black truffle oil. These fries will undoubtedly be on my Top Ten of 2010 at the end of the year.

The Verdict: Garden at the Cellar might be the best gastropub in the city.

From Our Kitchen: Duck Dumplings in Two Styles

From Our Kitchen: This was our first attempt at no waste cooking. We made Asian duck dumplings in two styles -- Duck Dumpling Soup with home made duck stock and Pan-Fried Duck Dumplings.

We boned a fresh whole duck reserving the meat for the dumpling filling. We then roasted the bones and carcass for the stock.

Next we sauteed scallions, white onion, shitake mushrooms, garlic and carrot in a pan then added the roasted bones and water to the softened vegetables and simmered for 3 hours.

While the stock simmered on the stove, we ground the reserved duck meat and added toasted sesame oil, rice vinegar, soy sauce, parsley, shitake mushrooms, ginger and garlic. We then placed a small amount into wonton wrappers, and formed into dumplings.

Finally, we added half of the dumplings to the finished duck stock with scallions, ginger, and garlic. We pan-fried the second half and served with dumpling sauce and plum sauce.

Within a couple of lazy Sunday hours, we turned a few simple and fresh ingredients into a wonderfully delicious and complex meal. As much as we love to eat out, sometimes the best dishes in Boston cannot compete with the feeling evoked by creating your own recipe and knowing where every ingredient on your plate came from. We made the purchase of a whole duck justifable by using every bit for this meal: the meat for the dumplings and the bones for the stock. We froze the skin and fat to render to fry potatoes and saved the liver to make a pate or mousse.

Buckley's Great Steaks (and Burger)

Overview: If New Hampshire had a celebrity chef it would be Michael Buckley, the Chef owner of Michael Timothy's, Surf, and Buckley's Great Steaks. Although Buckley's restaurants would have a difficult time standing out in the food centric areas within Boston, they bring outstanding cuisine to Southern New Hampshire. 

Medium Dead: If you've ever been to dinner with me you know that I hate to order the same dish as someone else at the table and I will never tell you what I am planning to eat. When I ordered the burger everyone looked at me with an expression of "What the f are you doing ordering a burger at a nice steak restaurant?" First it can't be considered a good steak restaurant if the burger doesn't rival any cut of meat on the menu. Secondly the burger at Buckley's Great Steaks was rated New Hampshire's best burger in 2009. When the burger arrived my expectations were immediately lowered by the sub-par presentation leading immediately to my first thought of "This is best Buckley has to offer"? The presentation was overly plain, the tomato limp and the onion flaccid. Overall, the burger hinted at a forgettable performance. My initial judgement was obviously wrong as this burger is something exceptional. The burger is made from the good stuff. All of the grain fed dry aged steaks are hand trimmed in house and the burger is made from the best of what is left over. There is nothing fancy with this burger -- no brioche or $20 cheddar -- just good quality ingredients. The simplicity of cheddar cheese and smoked bacon ensure the beef stands out among all else.

After dinner, the waitress delivered the dessert menu I glanced at it disinterestedly. I am not a fan of sweets. My opinion was changed when I saw what they had to offer. Buckley's has one of the best dessert menus I have seen anywhere. With selections like "coffee and donuts", carrot cake ice cream terrine and vanilla bean panna cotta (the dessert special) it was difficult to make a decision. We shared the "coffee and donuts" which was espresso creme brulee with fresh made cinnamon & sugar donuts and creme fresh. There would have been pictures but we couldn't wait long enough to take the shot. The espresso creme brulee tasted exactly like a good cup of cappuccino and the donuts reminded me of apple cider donuts fresh from the apple orchard. This was a fitting end to a great dinner with good friends.

Medium Well: True to Mike's odd and completely irrational pet peeve, I did not order the same as him, and chose the Tavern Meatloaf over the burger. When done well, I find meatloaf to be an ideal alternative to a burger, particularly because I can always guarantee it will come out cooked to my liking. (Have you ever had a meatloaf cooked rare? Me neither). Buckley's meatloaf is far superior to the meatloaf made famous by mothers across America, and especially better than my Mom's infamous vegetarian meatloaf. (Seriously, Mom. That was a really, really BAD idea.) The inside, albeit not much different in taste from an exceptionally good home cooked meatloaf, was juicy and flavorful, with an oozing center of Monterrey jack cheese. The Madiera mushroom sauce was too salty and earthy for my taste, and I found myself trying to avoid it. The sides menu is more creative than the traditional steak house's side menu and included tempting options such as Shitake and Red Onion Spaetzle, Butternut Squash Risotto, Green Beans Amandine and Ranch Steak Fries. Our best friend ordered onions rings as the side to her mixed grill plate, and a unanimous vote named these the best onions rings, well, ever.

The Verdict: Buckley's may have great steaks but the house specialties are equally as impressive and much more reasonably priced. Order the burger and spend the money you save on a few of the amazing desserts