Friday, April 1, 2011

Foundry on Elm

Overview: Foundry on Elm opened last year in Davis Square.  It is one of the few upscale bars in the area, but there is quite a demand because on a Friday night the bar is packed with groups of young professionals.  The restaurant has a familiar feel to it, almost too familiar.  The space looks nearly identical to Eastern Standard in Kenmore.  Classic cocktail menu...check, long dark wood bar with indirect lighting...check, the red leather booths with high top tables...check.  Even the menu looks eerily similar.  It is as though they picked up Eastern Standard and moved it across town,but along the way attracted a clientele 15 years younger from ES.  The similarities were so hard to ingnore that that we asked the waitress if they were affiliated; she must get this a lot because she replied with an emphatic "No!".  There are a few things that set Foundry apart from Eastern Standard.  First the prices are better; dinner for two with drinks for about $40 each can't be had at Eastern Standard.  Second the beer menu at Foundry is much better; they have over 20 beers on tap with rotating selections and a number of other craft beers in bottles.  Third as crowded as it was, we didn't have to wait for our reserved table.

Medium Well: I should have gotten the Spatezel. Or maybe we should have gone to Eastern Standard. Either would have been a much better decision than ordering the burger, which disappointed me not once, but twice in one night. During the Burger Sutra era, I have developed a particular expectation for how my burger should be cooked - slightly pink on the inside and cooked (not, ahem, charred) on the outside. Of this, I am sure many of you are well aware, as you have read my laments when a chef does not get it right. Foundry on Elm not only failed to cook my burger appropriately, but may be the reason I never order a burger again.

I ordered my mushroom cheeseburger medium, expecting it to come out slightly pinker than I like, but willing to make the sacrifice in hopes of avoiding the taste of burnt beef. What did I get? Rare. R-A-R-E. Not only was it rare in comparison to my expectations, but it was rare compared to Mike's rare bacon cheddar burger. The waitress, who could not have been kinder or more attentive, insisted on having a new burger prepared for me. Fifteen minutes later, burger number two arrived, medium on the inside but crispy as ever on the outside. What is the deal? I admit my expectations may be high and a tad unreasonable, but I also know a properly cooked, medium to medium well burger can be made by everyday chefs, because Mike does it every time he is at a grill. If Mike can do it, why can't Foundry? The biggest dissapointment about Foundry on Elm is that I wanted it to be good. Really, really good. But truth be told, it wasn't anything more than a mediocre restaurant with a stolen identity.

To be fair, Foundry wasn't all bad as the atmosphere was enjoyable (albeit stolen from Eastern Standard) and the gravy fries were delicious. I don't know whether I'd go back, because although I would like to try an entree, I am haunted by the memory of the Scallops our neighbor ordered, which smelled errily like the inside of an old tuna can.
Medium Dead: After a long burgerless winter we were looking for a restaurant that would pull us out of hibernation and get us excited for burgers again. While Foundry didn't blow us away it was a good burger. I like choices and Foundry offers just enough choices of toppings and cheese. Sometimes I like to be traditional so I ordered mine with bacon and cheddar. The bacon was thick and chewey which is actually how I like it. The melted cheddar wrapped around the burger like a blanket. My roll was a large white bakery roll lightly grilled and soft in the middle. So far we are off to a good start. The burger however was a little over cooked for my tastes. Despite being "overcooked"- in quotes because I like mine rare so medium rare is considered overcooked- it wasn't dry and had decent seasoning though a little too salty. Equally as important as the burger are the sides served with it, I give foundry an A on sides. The big dill pickle spears are housemade and taste very fresh. The french fries are thin and fried to a dark golden color and very crispy. Foundry might not be the best burger in Boston, but it surpasses most bar burgers.

The Verdict: We came to Foundry on Elm hoping for a burger to break us out of winter blues. Heather found disappointment, Mike found a familiar bar burger, and we both found very good poutine.