Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Garden at the Cellar

Overview: Garden at the Cellar is a gastropub on Mass ave in Cambridge, just outside of Harvard Square. Garden's claim is food that pays homage to the bounty of gardens, local farms and environmentally responsible products. They have a classic cocktail menu, a somewhat decent beer selection, and a menu so unique we could come back many times and never order the same thing. One look at the Boycott Restaurant Week menu and we knew this place was special.


Medium Well: It’s official. Garden at the Cellar earns the accolade for Unexpected Favorite of the Year. I have walked past Garden many times, and have thought little of it. If anything, the mundane appearance deterred me from wanting to dine there. I guess you shouldn’t judge a restaurant by its window sign, because this is one of the best meals I have had since starting this blog. Garden at the Cellar seems be one of few restaurants that knows a burger does not have to be charred on the outside to be cooked through on the inside. Unlike the dry, flavorless burgers that are often associated with medium burgers, this burger had clear, savory juices that trickeled from the center. The aioli and arugula added subtle complexities to even out the soft, buttery flavor of the brioche. The truffle fries are the second best fries that I have ever, EVER had in my life (second only to the Spotted Pig’s shoestring fries). One bite led me questioning why anyone would fry bland potatoes in any oil other than truffle oil.

The polenta fries are worth ordering if only for the housemade bleu cheese dressing. I have a particular affinity to restaurants that make their own condiments (see Craigie on Main), and Garden at the Cellar took it a step further by using my favorite local blue cheese (Great Hill Blue) as the main ingredient. Creamy and mild, the blue cheese dressing was the perfect accompainment for the golden crisped polenta sticks.

Medium Dead: As hard as I try, I have nothing sarcastic or negative to say about Garden at the Cellar. This is the type of restaurant I love to seek out. I knew I wanted the burger but choosing an appetizer was like choosing which friend I wanted to save in a fire. I couldn't decide between the foie gras and donuts, tater tots, charcuterie, polenta fries, cod cakes, and assiette of pork. Everything sounded so good I was contemplating which appetizer to order for dessert. This is why I need my hierarchy for ordering. Cured meats always win over duck liver.

In the end we decided on the polenta fries and charcuterie plate. Neither disappointed. The charcuteries were all housemade with the exception of the mortadella, which was local. The charcuterie at Garden rivals Coda in quality and uniqueness. The pork pate was wrapped in speck, the chorizo is made on premise, but the head cheese was the best. It was dry, sliced thin and tasted similar to rosemary ham. Every accompaniment was perfectly planned out. There were pickled shallots and okra, German mustard, and sweet cornichon pickles. On the side was a massive bowl of perfectly toasted crostini.

The burger at Garden is definitely the best burger I have had in 2010. The formula is so simple yet perfectly executed -- high quality local beef on warm buttery brioche topped with Vermont cheddar and aioli. The layer of peppery arugula under the burger adds a truly unique twist. As good as the burger was, it was nearly over shadowed by the fries. Lightly golden crispy fries tossed in rosemary and black truffle oil. These fries will undoubtedly be on my Top Ten of 2010 at the end of the year.

The Verdict: Garden at the Cellar might be the best gastropub in the city.

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