Thursday, April 29, 2010

Ceiba

Overview: A few years ago, in small apartment in Brighton, Mike conceived of a culinary creation called the surf and turf burger -- a burger patty and crab cake on a roll. Mike was sure this would be a phenomenon. His enthusiasm convinced his CIA-trained roommate, who at the time was a chef in Dedham, to run it as a daily special at his restaurant. Instead of becoming the new hit, the burger flopped and no one -not a single customer- ordered it. Years later, this chef took the surf and turf idea, made it his own creation and served it to us at Ceiba, the contemporary Latin restaurant he works at in Washington DC. This is that burger's story.

Medium Dead: The Ceiba surf and turf burger is a creation so over indulgent any self respecting catholic should walk themselves directly to confession after eating it. Most gourmet burgers focus on artisanal cheese or fancy bread to differentiate the burger, but Chef Matt takes this one step farther. Stuffed inside this juicy patty is two ounces of lobster that is slowly poached in butter. The lobster lends delicate and subtle flavor to the burger but adds a sinful texture and amazing richness. If you think a burger can't possibly be any richer, you are wrong, since it is covered in a creamy huacaina sauce, topped with sliced avocado and placed on a bed of queso fresco.
Every ingredient is well thought out and individually enhances the meat without stealing the show. The lobster is more like a condiment than a main ingredient, which is perfect because at the end of the day a burger should always be about the beef.

Medium Well: I did not expect to like this burger. My knowledge of the original surf and turf burger's failure, paired with my indifference for lobster led me to believe that I would be writing a "nice try, but bad burger" review. This will not be one of those reviews. Matt has created one of the most gratifying synergism's the culinary world has yet to know. It is a prime example of how unrelated ingredients from various cuisines can create a combination so emphatically spectacular that you wonder how your palate lived without it before. If publicized correctly, this burger can kick mini-burgers to the curb and become the upscale restaurant industry's new trend.

Bonus Bites: Ceiba is famous for their ceviche and no meal here is complete without ordering it. We had a sampling of the Peruvian Classico ceviche, Yucatan shrimp ceviche cocktail and the yellowfin tuna ceviche. Even better than the ceviche was the lesser known tiradito which was sliced sea bass cooked in fresh lime juice with red grapefruit, radish and jalapenos.

The Verdict: Go to Ceiba and have the surf and turf burger. You won't find it on the menu but if you ask nicely you might just be lucky enough to have one of the best burgers in DC.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Radius

Overview: Out of all the burgers in Boston, none has received more attention than the Radius burger. Time and time again, this burger tops the list of Boston foodies, and in 2008, it was the winner at the South Beach Food and Wine Festival Burger Bash. So if it is so highly acclaimed, why did it take so long for us to try it? At a steep $19, this burger required a special occasion, at at last one came: a Radius special of half price burgers at the bar.

Medium Well: Although I was willing to knock the hype, I must acknowledge that the Radius burger is one of the best gourmet burgers in the country. I wouldn't recommend paying full price for it, but if you are able to catch a half-price Saturday, it is well worth it. When comparing this burger with others we have recently had, I couldn't ignore the similarities between this burger and Garden at the Cellar. True, they are made with different ingredients, served in much different atmospheres, and do not taste anything alike (I did say similarities, right?), however they both are prepared with the same, invaluable equation that results in a good burger. (The best quality ingredients available + a chef/cook who knows what he/she is doing = A Good Burger). So which is better? It depends on your personal preference. Horseradish or aioli? Crispy onions or arugula? Try both and let us know what you think.

Medium Dead: The cheeseburger at Radius was voted #1 in Boston by Boston Magazine and because of that it has been at the top of my list since we started this blog. Everything that comes out of Michael Schlow's kitchen is gold, and this burger is no exception. The first and most distinct flavor is the onions, then subtly the creamy horseradish flavor melts in, and finally you are hit with an explosion of perfectly seasoned seared beef. Describing this burger makes me sound like a wine snob describing all of the phantom flavors in a Chardonnay. The Radius burger is absolutely on par with the other gourmet burgers from the Boston celebrity chef Rat Pack.

Boston Magazine also voted the fries at radius the best in the city, but I disagree with this assessment. Don't get me wrong the fries are great. Every shoe string fry is perfectly crispy with flakes of fresh chive, but Garden at the Cellar's truffle fries would win in a fight any day of the week.

Bonus Bites: Before the burger we shared the crab meat gyoza as an appetizer. The pan fried dumplings were full of fresh crab meat and served on mango and jicama salsa with with avocado spread. The mix of flavor was excellent and reminiscent of a California roll. From the photo, you can tell we were so excited to dig in we forgot to take the picture.
After dinner we shared the Boston creme donuts. Warm sugar covered donut holes, fresh vanilla cream and dark chocolate ganache served side by side. Heather loved these because they weren't covered in chocolate. I loved them because they paired well with the espresso.
The Verdict: I am not sure if the Radius burger is the best in the city, but the quality and flavor ensure that it is in the playoffs every year.